Diary of a trip to Trieste / Ljubljana / Zagreb, and then back via Facebook status Seeing that the minimum is -7 in Transylvania I congratulate myself for having chosen the former Yugoslavia, and get ready to go.
Since the flight is empty, I know that the closure of Pisa Trieste will be final.
I see the Adriatic, and west. The right side to allow see the sun go down.
Tips for young travelers: when you take the bus from Trieste to arrive in town, have the foresight to sit against the window on the right side of the bus. The path runs along the sea and is definitely worth it.
On the waterfront of Trieste, near the sunset, I regret having left the camera in the suitcase which is now in the luggage of the bus. Bright sky but gray clouds, yellow and blue horizon. Very beautiful and very sad.
First Impressions of Trieste: Bratislava will not but I think that the quality average of female beauty is very high. I meditate on it while drinking my first Union (Slovenian beer) Despar bought the station for 65 cents.
went into a bar and order a spritz and see if you use without really Trieste Aperol or Campari. The result is true.
Trieste is very beautiful, even if the avenues and squares are a bit 'too airy for my taste. Note that the historical center, between Orthodox and figures splendid Hapsburg palaces, dominate some horrendous functionalist architecture fans regret that even the blok in Bucharest.
After the typical local dish goes to drink Trieste Trieste: kebap. For the record in Trieste is freezing cold. Ljubljana will be worse.
The bus is late to Ljubljana, the Slovenian girl starts to worry a lot when the bus removed from the board. There are only two buses a day and there are only ten to expect this. It does not seem that there is much exchange between the two cities.
The operation of boarding the bus to Ljubljana is the most complicated thing I've ever seen. Passport controls, withdrawal of the documents, driver and maybe customs officer who only speak an obscure language Slavic. Let's go.
First Impressions of Ljubljana: disappointing. The night lighting is dim, aided by the cold there is not much people around, the old town is full of sites like Berlin or Budapest, and above the current price of a beer in a bar is two euro. Troppissimo too. The exploration continues.
According to the economic indicators of costs of Kebap, Ljubljana is a city on the cheap three euro fifty. What I ate in Trieste cost the same.
After visiting a very cold Thursday night in October, Ljubljana seems more a small town a little 'desperate that a vibrant university city capital of a small state. We will see the light of day. Good night.
In a hostel, the luxury of luxuries is having a big chest three times your luggage and a pseudocomodino between you and the wall with an electrical outlet to recharge your mobile staff. And here is everything.
Positive things: the hostel. Slightly off center has huge rooms with bunk beds tall (including the one above and one below there will be 'at least five feet), abundant breakfast although basic, very clean bathrooms, giant drawers and bedside tables with lots of personal outlet.
I pass in front of a bus and on it I see an old face with a fantastic but also a fantastic hair from socialism. Some things that are worth the trip. The story survives in women's hairstyles.
later by chance in the decentralized Serbian Orthodox Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius, and an extraordinary view of me in front of him. Fully painted with beautiful frescos, with a huge carved wooden altar and icons, a giant wooden chandelier also rich in sacred images. Much, much more beautiful than the celebrated Serbian Orthodox churches in and around Budapest.
Boasting an unlikely hat bought in Edinburgh a sip Lasko sitting in the sun in the middle of the market in Ljubljana. By day this place is not bad, for the topography of the nightlife I have equipped.
the Ljubljana market will sell clothes, basketry, candles, fruit, vegetables and flowers. Flowers. Flowers. Many more flowers than those that normally sell at the market. Looking at the buyers I think the fact is not due to an abnormal number of people in love but it is a habit of home furnishings. I've seen more only flowers at the flower market in Amsterdam.
Pant and disdainful of the funicular up the hill that dominates Ljubljana airport and I head to the Castle.
am undecided between a visit to the National Museum of Ljubljana or a walk nell'arcifamoso Tivoli Park.
Ratings on female beauty in Ljubljana nothing about that. Pisa is much better, and Trieste surpasses the lot. Then this evening around the club and I'll know better.
In Ljubljana the local brew, taken at the supermarket, is seventy-three cents a can. In short selling beer Slovene in Trieste at lower prices than Slovenians. I am thrilled.
and the colors of autumn to the Tivoli Park in Ljubljana. To be honest I think that the trees have been taken by surprise as all winter, as the dominant color and is still by far the green. The sun gilds
Ljubljana, and soon the already low temperature will drop again. Urge the pivo.
Esco for dinner. Burek is the food.
It's amazing how different it seems the face of a city, always the same, always with the same cold, if you got to know the day and then to recognize familiar shapes in the buildings badly lit.
the railway station in Ljubljana is a vending machine with apples. It is a distributor like all distributors, but in overhead swivel apples. Thirty cents, an apple. At first glance seemed to me a bullshit, but after three seconds m'è seemed like a great thing. Now I go and buy one.
are in greatest social center of Ljubljana. It is a huge community center, takes a block with several buildings inside. One of these buildings was converted into a hostel: Hostel Celica. Maybe next time I come here. Ah, beer. Community center prices are popular, but a pint of Union still goes to one and seventy. Nothing to do, Ljubljana is expensive.
Complaints: social centers is always cold. In the centers there are always drunken nuisance. In the centers there is always the reggae. Okay cool, well the van drunk (also because half are women) but the reggae is not good for shit. I drink my beer and I go to a club jocks, to acoustic requirements.
He goes to a club not an alternative pernoigiovanimoglobal, you're stinking cold. Those who attended the centers with certain climates brings in my jersey and pants Superpippo. It remains to explain how they have to face the cold. Shit, I have the nose gombledamende ghiuso.
Ljubljana is one of those cities that if you go around on Thursday evening are a desert desperate, but if you go around on Friday night straboccano of life. It can be a good definition by province. Since
ago bitterly cold outside and I am tired of exploring within the club celebrated Bachus. Since charges are not left it, since it is underground I will not camp. Goodbye. Note
color: Ljubljana public toilets are usually free. Today it happened to me a fee, cost SEVENTEEN cents. Miracles of the recent changeover.
Ljubljana spritz using the Aperol. No, not at this time I ordered a spritz in the morning like an alcoholic, I've only seen in the menu bar where I ordered a pint of Union.
the National Gallery in Ljubljana strabocca Impressionist boring. For once, instead I hit the pre-nineteenth-century Impressionist painters. Write down the names: Matevz Langus, which reminds me in some pictures even Maruo, and Jozef Tomic.
In
art gallery dedicated to the medieval part of the Ljubljana is small but very interesting. Many beautiful painted wooden statues, surmounted by a crucifix straziatissimo bare wood, very exciting.
I hope I can find on the Internet, the spectral portrait of a noblewoman Almanach attributed to me is in front straight out of a Tim Burton movie. And eighteenth centuries, and paintings by that artist that I can see around here have nothing to do with it. Maybe it was just an exceptional person. However, extraordinary.
Meditate if you can replace the alcohol, smoking, bulimia with the more socially tolerated dell'igene disorder. Probably yes, the mind simply needs to keep her busy and an obsession that is not too difficult to satisfy. On my return I give it a try.
Which is useless to complain so much about Berlusconi then when the poor organization of hostels Slavic makes you forget to make you pay you go if nothing had happened. There is an Italian miserable hidden in the heart of each one of us, and the death of our dear leader not estirperà.
After trying the three main qualities of Burek you eat in Ljubljana, I recommend the Mesli Burek, it can taste just one.
While waiting for the train to Zagreb talk about cinema. Tests in three lines: Up is a film very fun. In its worst parts. In its best parts and much more.
I am traveling to a country outside the EU and out of Schengen. I do not happened for decades.
The train from Ljubljana to Zagreb through several spectacular mountain scenery, and at one point slips for a long time in a narrow gorge along a river. To avoid a stiff neck that I'm getting sit on the right side of the train, the accident can not see anything.
démodé and excitement of the train station while the guards standing at the customs control documents and stamping passports. The guard observed the gray you see in the bottom of the back cover of the identity card with a special optical reader. Who knows it says.
The monumental, huge square in Zagreb that greets the traveler just got off the train makes quite clear on one thing: we are neither here nor in Ljubljana Bratislava, here we are in a city.
Cost of living in Zagreb. The kebab is still about three euro and fifty. The local beer is one euro eighty, a slight improvement. On the other hand is full of small shops that have the air of being open late at night where there is one and twenty, and that there was in Ljubljana. Hostel: very central, very economical, a little 'sgarruppato. You are sure to get paid.
am facing the imposing Gothic façade of the Cathedral of Zagreb. There are 6 degrees. The bells remember that the city's eight o'clock.
the street food that goes in Zagreb are pizza and kebabs. Great disappointment. In Ljubljana, with burek, they have more character. Not that a burek worth the trip. But I do not find in Pisa, and this makes it "exotic." Pizza and kebab instead ...
If you were to decide which features bestial seems like the national character of the Croats, would be the angry hiss of a snake. So, at first glance. Defame further
Croatia. Feminine beauty: nothing in particular. But you see around, rarely, not like in Slovakia, some very beautiful woman. Too bad that it always has the look of puttanone carnivore.
front of the statue Tesla, I realize that one can not generalize that the Croats can not all be assholes. Or does it? Who knows it was Tesla to meet him in person.
Tomorrow begins the film festival in Zagreb. Do you think we have come on purpose. Er, think that I knew nothing. I have numerous documents, all in Croatian only, to witness the international ambitions of the festival. But tomorrow damage Amenabar's latest film. From orecchiante English we might as well go.
spend the evening with a club and everywhere else and I feel mocked by men (for my decrepitude) and desired by women (for my innate figaggine). Paranoia or reality? The overall effect, however, not pleasant.
sleep cheapest hostel in the city is that you may sometimes sleep with a homeless man who spends eyed nights a burp in the kitchen and Russian very strongly all night. Very picturesque.
Croats are almost all museums closed on Mondays and Saturdays and Sundays practice a comfortable ten thirteen. So here I am trying to run to see the National Museum of Croatian naive art before it closes.
If you can not go through Zagreb to miss the little Croatian Museum of Naive Art, full of spectacular works. A few names from Google: Ivan Lackovic Croata, Ivan Vecenaj, Generalic Ivan, Ivan Rabuzin. I am very reluctant
to leave the Croatian Museum of Naive, despite having shot three times.
Zagreb is a city full of interesting museums. If you are interested, do not arrive on a Saturday night like I did: all the thirteen closed on Sundays and Mondays are all closed.
advantage of the fact that Mestrovic's atelier closed at two instead of one o'clock, I found this great sculptor secession, tinged with the gloom elsewhere mild forms of liberty. I recommend you take a look at the example for his Madonna and Child, with the long face, almost modigliani, the mother and the infant's skull hydrocephalus.
One annoying thing on a serious Catholic country such as Croatia, not like Italy, is that nobody does not work on Sunday. Work six days a week and on Sunday you want to go to the National Gallery? It is closed. It should also be good for a tourist, if museums do not even religiously observe the usual full closure on Monday.
Zagreb newsstands are filled with comic Tex, Zagor, Alan Ford. My God, Alan Ford. In Ljubljana, I have not noticed but I doubt it was like here
Zagreb Street food is eaten at a table, thus missing its fundamental element. But serve it in two minutes, it costs a shit and it's very best in the burek. It's called cevapi (with an acute accent on the c) and from now on I will feed only that. O almost.
For now, the main advantages of having a 12x zoom (or for purists an 36mm 432mm zoom) seem to me the opportunity to take details of the upper floors of the buildings, the convenience of not having to necessarily move to take a picture, and the possibility to do the portraits being far enough away to ensure that the subject does not notice. Is that all?
will be cold shocking, but rarely in my travels I had the clear understanding that living where I live is much better than living here.
Zagreb is not stingy cultural events. Apart from the film festival, which starts today, tonight I could choose from five different plays. Why is Sunday. Yesterday I could choose from twenty.
Pivo pivo pivo! The name of the local brand is Ozujsko. It is absolutely not the level of the Slovenian beer. Not in this case there was in Ljubljana, while here you can easily buy a Lasko. And it costs the same. Why insist on the Ozujsko then? Heck, for the cultural experience!
If the first night to spend the night with a bearded man who spends his evenings at Raskolnikov bubbling in the kitchen with his head on the table and a bottle of beer in hand and spent the night snoring like a train may seem quaint, but not the second. And alas, I fear there will be a third.
If you ask a white coffee in Zagreb will take what I would call a cappuccino. What I'm drinking hours is enough to fill a glass with 0.3 and is equipped with practical straw, now deleted but not before trying it. At the end is not bad, and it is so. What does it take for this bright morning in mid-winter.
Yesterday I went to the opening of the Zagreb Film Festival, which as everyone knows is the main reason for my trip. It was an unlikely film projected co-produced by Italy and Sri Lanka, a film directed by the unlikely name of Uberto Pasolini (without the m), which seems to have been a great success in Sri Lanka. It tells the happy story of illegal immigration in Germany. Not happy because in the end everything is okay and everyone finds happiness in the country of origin, but happy because they do away with it. Unlikely. So it is unlikely that a true story, twenty-three Sri Lankans were able to enter Europe by putting on a handball team is presented as the Sri Lankan national. They also played a few games like losing seventy-three zero. The year was 2004.
recognitions: the bearded Rasputin gladdens my nights snoring like a marble quarry does not come from the depths of Holy Mother Russia as I suspected, but it is American from New Orleans.
A city full of pigeons can not be full of starving people. (Toberro Mapaldi)
Mirogoj The cemetery is significant in two respects. First, is the only cemetery where I have seen Christian and Jewish graves graves next to each other. Second, it is huge, but completely lacking in benches. Or the famous architect Hermann Bolle you have designed all this: where do you expect me to sit down bowing his head to meditate on impermanence of things? On the grave of your grandfather?
the station in Zagreb is not a distributor of apples. Instead, there is a comfortable chapel on the first platform with a statue of the Madonna and Child with whom, if you run away to pray, you can do your stuff free.
Tkalciceva In Utica, in Zagreb, all the rooms are always full. See that the only one who is perpetually desert is a place called "Eating pizza ..." (dots and spaces provided in the original as well) fills me with malicious glee.
And after seeing the Zagreb Film Festival Julia and Julie stopped just minutes before the end of an insurmountable technical problem, I spend the last night zagabrina sipping a beer and watching the world go by. Hostel is waiting for me from a diesel engine tractor in New Orleans that I will cheer all night with his sublime sounds.
The problem tonight is not the tractor since the U.S. that the Russian tenant wants the window open because he thinks the American stinks like shit. It is very cold outside, and I'm near the window. No.
Warning: I survived the but having spent the night wap traffic and having to rely on wifi points these updates will become much more sporadic.
All cities have at least one self-respecting museum monster, giant, engulfing the visitor without leaving hopes of collapse. What is called Mimara Zagreb, I'm going to be swallowed.
Bosch, Raphael, Duccio, Canaletto, and if you do not emotions, which moves soil?
exit from the spectacular muzej Mimara gift you the name of an artist that I can Google with a profit Vojo Stanic. Suspended between Dali, Bosch, De Chirico and an optimist about the world laugh. If you pass
remember that Croatia is Ozujsko much good in a bottle or can.
I realize this late, but the use of public transport within a radius of one mile from the main square in Zagreb is free. Ebbravi. Other
discovered too late: in this den of snakes hissing are all highly susceptible to kindness, unusual and unprecedented. If nobody available to hiss with serene smiles, a few minutes later the Croats melt. Or rather, Croatia.
It seems that the largest city park in Southeast Europe is at Zagreb Maksimir is called. Explore.
Sitting under the gazebo in the Maksimir, a Ožujsko on the table and the sun going down, illuminating the park at my feet (the gazebo is on a small hill), I think all in all you might as well live in Zagreb.
Axiom of passenger: a city with a population of X million has attractions and activities such as to entertain the visitor for at least X weeks.
in Zagreb is used to walk around with an mp3 player and huge headphones that completely occlude the ear. I have seen only do the same in London. I do not know if the causes are the same.
I would also happen to have a drink consisting of 50% to 50% for beer and lemonade. It 's not a long spiritual drink, sell already' bottled '. It's called Radler. The produce in Ljubljana, where I came back. Attention.
misguided by the use of transport within the cemetery Zale from behind. The development of architectural thought to be a sort of entrance to the underworld becomes a sort of entrance to the realm of the living. Please note: the entrance to the realm of the dead are welcomed by Christ, when we go out to return to our small business transient Mary welcomes us.
Zale Cemetery and 'the dream of an architectural genius, Piečnik, also responsible for town planning the city'. Unfortunately, the various chapels are accessible only if you are commemorating a dead person inside, and it takes a long sleeping on the stomach to mix with the relatives of the deceased with intent only tourist.
The Biennial of Graphic Arts in Ljubljana and 'very small. As a young student I saw it with 3 €, but if I had spent 6 as expected I would not be happy. A few interesting bits, including a video that takes people who make their living by repeating the same phrase as "The evening paper!" or "Welcome!" or "Beijing" or "Thank You", or "Round, round."
I go to the station to return to Italy. Trieste. But first 'I'll eat some food Balkans.
in Slovenia but I'm still I can attach to the Italian network. Tip: The most flexible way from Ljubljana to Trieste by train to Sezana, and from there bus to Trieste. It takes a double, but we do not start at six in the morning.
Sezana, far from being a flamboyant border city full of temptations, as I guess it's Nova Gorica is a very sad desolatissimo place populated only by old people. It happens. I care little, I'm leaving in half an hour. Wonder when it has a station, and even trivial, connected with Ljubljana with more than ten trains per day.
I eat a Pleskaricka. And I ask, but a niche mangiari Balkan road would not have happened in Italy? Are we sure? For sure I have not seen anyone try.
I learned many things in Slovenia, but you will bequeath one. The beer is good Laško the Union. Not only is this true, but many Slovenes will make you aware of a whispering something like Carbonaro a secret, "is Better Than Laško Union" and "Laško is first class," will reveal.
I'm still on the road until tomorrow but a couple of minutes I went back under the cleat steel pimp king in Italy.
I do not know a city, much larger in Ljubljana, but the thrill of travel is not the same. Life is life outside the border.
If people are not an asshole at the reception of the hostel before it closes, or soon, tonight I sleep alone in a huge room with bedside drawers and lamps controcazzi, spending twenty euro. This is called a bastard travel as normal.
I do not think they live in Trieste in a city of art. The cleverly deduce from the fact that libraries in the city there are plenty of materials on every corner of the island but not on Trieste is almost nothing. Also I do not see tourist information points.
Trieste and the Balkans. Just look at a map to understand that it is in the Italian peninsula. But Trieste is a city totally Italian. You can see it now, how does the traffic, people on the streets, from the atmosphere. I'm in Italy, no doubt. Alas.
I had a beautiful city between the rocky mountains and the sea bright (Umberto Saba, inscription on his statue placed in the middle of the street walker Alighieri. Trieste). The spritz
White is the coolest way, more minimal, more elegant, more Nihonjin to say NO to life. Say No to life, say YES to spritz white!
seems impossible that only five kilometers from the Slovenian border to me is totally impossible to eat a burek or cevapcici, but if I want to eat a sandwich instead of a typical Istanbul I can choose from dozens of places that I do. It is also good.
The only thing that Slovenia is located in Trieste with great ease and beer Union. I've already said that Lasko is good? Do not turn the voice too.
short a trip like this (Ljubljana, Zagreb, Trieste) Trieste disappointing because it's Italian. I am disappointed because I am Italian. You are disappointed because you're Italian. But in Trieste's waterfront. The sea is beautiful in general. The waterfront of Trieste in particular is beautiful. I am on the waterfront of Trieste.
The wise work done on lighting night unification of Italy in Piazza Trieste produces extraordinary results. The square already wonderfully scenic during the day, the beauty is multiplied when seen at night. There'd photographic documentation were it not that the new car is drunk as if the batteries were Schweppes, and hope he has bequeathed to walk this morning. In Trieste
not know what the accident of history remained completely intact at the center of a square is a monument of Maximilian emperor of Mexico.
Life is neither good nor bad, but it is original! (Italo Svevo, inscription on his statue in Piazza Attilio Hortis Walker, Trieste. But I'll be insatiable Confessions of Zeno could extract better).
Best wish to start a young man, felt something in Trieste: "Enjoy the day!"
Some corners of Trieste, instead of being able to Vienna, seem vaguely Spain. Remove from Piazza, for example.
Nightlife in Trieste in a warm Wednesday in October is not even remotely comparable to that of Pisa. But nothing own. But it is not bad, there's a lot of people around and a good percentage is drunk.
My soul is in Trieste (inscription on the statue of James Joyce Walker on the bridge spanning the Canal Grande, Trieste).
Happiness is sleeping alone in a quiet room, big and clean after six days of shared rooms, not always happily. Good night.
"Rest. A seed does not sprout on the move ever." (Read yesterday on some work at the Biennale of Visual Arts in Ljubljana).
I did not know there was a synagogue in Trieste HUGE. It is perhaps the second biggest I've ever seen. The interior is also spectacularly beautiful, with a structure which stands upright on the Tablets of the Law. The rose window that illuminates the interior will have a minimum radius of two meters, if not three.
mail from a small photographic exhibition in the synagogue of Trieste, I discovered that the buildings "ugly" in the old city are not due to a hasty rebuilding took place after the bombings of World War II, as I assumed, but an accurate systematic destruction of the Jewish ghetto in the aftermath of the issue of racial laws. Who says Fascist accepts this legacy.
and the large Serbian Orthodox church in Trieste. Big church big disappointment, to say the truth.
I relegated to visit the cathedral and castle San Giusto in last place because they are perched on the mountain overlooking Trieste, which is very steep. As a result I find myself with the cathedral closed for lunch. But then the money eight per thousand, where the heck are they going?
are waiting for the bus to Trieste by bus to the airport. Adventure over. Summary
costs. Travel: flight to / r 2 cent Pisa-Trieste, Trieste, Trieste airport bus € 3.25 each way, bus Trieste-Ljubljana € 7, mountain / r Ljubljana-Zagreb € 19.04, € 6:54 Sežana Ljubljana train, bus Sežana Trieste 1 €. Hostels: 17 per night in Ljubljana, Zagreb 12 a night, 21 night in Trieste. Other costs: € 3.5 Zagreb daily transportation, bus to go to the cemetery Zale € 1. Given that the
Trieste Pisa is practically deserted (there will be fifty passengers) we can say with a good chance of hitting the game is in great fanfare on October 1 and suspended with effect from November 4 will never be restored. Too bad.
(the image is temporary, will be changed when I downloaded the photos from the camera. Meanwhile enjoy it)
