a bit 'all somewhere in the garage or basement, we have an old frame of the 90s that we had bought as a child or perhaps even ignorant of their origin. Well, this is a great base to build a nice single speed! These early frames mtb in fact have something vital to do without changing: the sliding dropouts.
On modern types of dropouts in fact it is impossible to obtain a proper chain tension without using extra mechanisms such as hubs or central eccentric movements or stress.
Usually these frames are made of steel and this makes it easier if you wanted to repaint the bike, everything will be easier than aluminum because the paint adheres well without using a bottom.
Ok, I start immediately to give instructions on what to do.
- What to take: gearshift, rear derailleur, front derailleur and cassette. As for the crankset it depends ... If you can remove the crown you must leave the central ring and remove the other two. If you riveted all the options are three: the majority off with flexible parts that do not serve, take the crank as it is using only a crown or replace the crank. Eye that some crank had 90 crowns oval. This makes things quite difficult on a single speed: the chain tension properly is almost impossible unless you use a spring device. Strongly discourage use on a single speed crankset of this type.
- Transmission postriore: if your rear hub is threaded type just screw in a new freewheel at a speed. If it's on the box that puts you find a pinion and thicknesses. There are kits that include everything you need to save or you can try to remove shims from an old cassette for use in the trash, if you find one somewhere.
- Choice of report: on a mountain bike with 26 "wheels usually uses a 2:1 ratio with which you can deal without too much difficulty climbs moderately challenging and whirl like hamsters on the plain. So if you have front will be mounted behind a 32 a 16. But if you want to use your single speed in a mountainous environment with very tough climbs and no flat sections can be a good idea down to 1.8:1 in teeth that is equivalent to 32:18. If you want to assemble a bike from the city and live in a flat area, well '... You can only stretch!
In the photo you see my first bike, an old steel frame dated 1991 with steel wheels also. Italian thread bottom bracket, originally with 18-speed - complete with a sticker advertising the thing! - OLD rear 120, and especially with rigid fork!
I unfortunately am not able to do things to save and then I changed to a slaughterhouse of stuff. The brakes were of the cantilever, which I replaced with the Tektro v-brake for holding back like the damned. The crank was one of those oval and has been replaced with a from 38 teeth, but made specifically for economic single speed. The freewheel is threaded 18-tooth model. The seat post and handlebars were the first steel and have been replaced with modern, lightweight aluminum cpmponenti. The saddle was a miscarriage of foam and has been replaced with a light Italian saddles but a little 'uncomfortable - that splits the ass! It was originally painted white with a spray of blue here and there, but had some rusty parts. So I did that all in black with spray paint again. Gauge: 36-spoke wheels are in fourth! noted that the ratio is quite long because this bike is intended to be used as a means of commuting in a mountain village. You also why I used an old bike saved from rotting in the cellar. If not dry me cry too much!
In this photo you can see the forks of the sliding type, which are essential in order to tension the chain by simply tightening the hub nuts without using other mechanisms.
